Walking up the ramp to the main entrance of Hofbrauhas Las Vegas, the wheezing of an accordion over a loudspeaker reminded me that I was heading into a Teutonic sensory barrage. I hadn’t had lunch-or dinner-for that matter, in here in years. There is only so much ersatz gemutlichkeit a man can take.

A Comely Server at Hofbrauhaus

Or is there? A blond hostess in a dirndl greeted me between the gift shop and the double doors that lead to the beer hall, and as the doors opened, I was hit right in the kisser with the scent of hops and roast pork. Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas is a giant place with a three story dining room, long benches, and a raised stage for music. I can’t take Oktoberfest accordion music on a loudspeaker, but I confess a weakness for good beer and wurst, the German word for sausage.

So lunch, when the polka band is silent, seemed like the logical time to reacquaint myself with German food in Vegas. After being seated, I ordered a pretzel, one of the soft kind you get at airports, but far better. The dough for these pretzels is imported, as is the sauerkraut here, and par baked on the premises. The distinctive flavor comes as a result of a surface rub with lye.

 This is easily the best pretzel in town, but it’s tacky that spicy onion mustard costs a buck extra. You’ll wash it down with a beer, of course. I chose Oktoberfest, with a gorgeous head, served in a chilled stein. This is also the best beer in town, and so what if the owners compromised from their original idea to serve it at 8 Celsius, or forty eight degrees Fahrenheit. Americans, especially in the desert, like a cold one.

 Later, after a friend showed up, came a barrage of Teutonic food. Germany is only known for three things in the food world; bread, sausages and beer. Happily, all of them are terrific at Hofbrauhaus Las Vegas, Anything not in this category and you are on your own.

First came allgauer kasespatzle, an Austrian dish that is akin to an American mac’ n cheese. Spatzle are little flour dumplings, and for this preparation they are laced with melted cheese, and topped with fried onion straws.

Kasespatzle

German food is bland but this was pure baby food. The taste of cheese was barely discernible.

Then we had the mixed sausage plate: two long, smoky franks, a chicken sausage, and a marjoram scented pork sausage, accompanied by excellent mashed potato, imported sauerkraut (that has been soaked, to reduce its sourness), and a thimble of that spicy onion mustard, this time included in the price. This dish is awesome. I especially loved the sauerkraut. Oh, all right. So they can do four things.

Wurst Plate at Hofbrauhaus

We also had a slightly overcooked and flavorless Bayerniche schweinebraten, roast pork in dark beer sauce accompanied by a softball sized bread dumpling, and the highlight of the lunch, a mixed green salad drizzled with lusty vinaigrette. Who knew the Germans could make such a good salad? Heidi Klum, for sure.

At 4510 Paradise Rd. 853-2337.

Hofbrauhaus Stage

The original Hofbrauhaus in Munich dates back to 1589; it currently can seat a few thousand of your closest friends.  The Las Vegas version dates back to 2004 and stands across from the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino. Seating capacity is a bit lighter: about 380 people. Parking is somewhat difficult. Join in for a few tunes and steins.

Tags: German, Hofbrauhaus

This entry was posted by Max Jacobson on Sunday, November 8th, 2009 at 10:36 am and is filed under Dining Out Vegas. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.